Mole

Just a few photos of Mole National Park, the largest in Ghana. Story of the trip and details to follow.

BTW, it's mole like the Mexican sauce, not mole like the one Cindy Crawford is famous for.

Uploading takes forever. Sorry. All my meager connection could manage tonight.

Pool, pond....

Hey lady, stop taking my picture when I'm eating my breakfast. 

Which Country

Listening to Atlantis Radio. All Country, all the time. Most radio stations here interrupt songs with 5 second promo spots for the station or with the DJ prattling on.

This is how the station is described: "The identity of Atlantis Radio is reinforced by a policy of consistency in programming to achieve that relaxed and receptive ambience." 

Tim McGraw's latest on now. Fab.

Sorry; the website isn't working. 

UPDATE: I stand corrected. It plays smooth jazz as well as country. 

Think About It

A sign in Osu

Another Day, Another 100 Cedis

An email from an American friend. Subject line: "Yet another interesting day in Ghana."

I have a crazy story to share...I was sound asleep last night and was woken up by 2 screaming men around 2am.  There was alot of cursing in English mixed with Twe (the local language).  I eventually fell back to sleep then started dreaming (actually it was more of a nightmare) about fighting because of what I heard.  Turns out a tenant that lives on the top floor of my building came home around 1am with a "commerical worker" (thats what they call prostitutes here) and then because he hadn't paid his electricity bill he didn't have any power in his apt so he got into an argument with the prostitute because she said she couldn't "work" without any lights, so the tenant went and woke up the landlord yelling at him to get the power back on.  Note every tenant pays their own electricity bill.  So the landlord and the drunk tenant go into a screaming fit and meanwhile the prostitute left without servicing the tenant and everyone in the building was disturbed by the noise and commotion.  I'm quite tired today as a result but it makes for a great story and another adventure here in Ghana!

The first week I was here I saw several very attractive women sitting alone at the restaurant of a hotel frequented by expats. Thought they might be travelers from other parts of Africa. Another evening I saw several more young women dressed in nice, albeit short dresses at a restaurant. Took me months and confirmation from a saavy friend to figure out they're working girls.  

The Big Six

The Big Six heroes of Ghana, on all the bills. Can you name them? A hint: the traffic circles in Accra are named after them.
Give up? Nkrumah, Danquah, Ako Adjei. And the three other guys.

Actually, they're not on the 2 cedi bill, which is fairly new. Some rumors about the current president (Atta Mills) not wanting to put the father (Edward Akufo-Addo) of his rival (Nana Addo Dankwa Akufo-Addo) on the bill. 

The Center of the World

 Last weekend I trekked from Green Turtle Lodge 6 kilometers to Cape Three Points, the closest land to 0 longitude/0 latitude. I guess I don't know how many miles 6 kilometers is. We traveled on the beach, over land, up hill, through woods, over rocks, through a flooded, uncleared path and finally arrived. Emily sprained her ankle yet kept on hiking with nary a complaint. Linden went ahead to recon the rocks but was turned back.

Lush

Emily and Milyeri on the trek

The beach along the way

Up hill both ways

Emily on the rocks

God Bless Our Homeland Ghana

The Lighthouse, closed for the evening

The view of the center of the world

We passed through several small villages and found folks who were kind enough to guide us.  After four hours, we made it.

Unluckily, the lighthouse keeper wasn't there. Luckily, Haroon and five friends in an SUV picked us up for the return trip. THAT 6 kilometers took an hour and a half, not including the stop for gas and goat kabobs.

Changes

Sorry for the radio silence. Lots of changes here in the past month. In short, I have left the organization I came to work for and the apartment I was living in. I have a new job and am staying with Martin and his gracious roommates until I get settled in a new apartment (hopefully this coming weekend).

Things on the ground look very different than they do from 6,000 miles away and people are often not what they seem; true no matter where you are. My situation is not uncommon here.

Some of the gang at the beach

Despite the challenges, I'm still really enjoying it here. I have a wonderful...and expanding...group of friends, many of whom have had similar experiences and who have been so supportive. The best advice I would give anyone moving to a new country: find friends fast. 

Directions

These are the better directions I've seen. Usually, you're on your own.

"From 37 Military Hospital: Drive towards Christ the King Church, at that intersection make a left. Go straight until the intersection where they are selling cane baskets. Make a left there as if you are going bac (sic) towards 37. Immediately on your left is Magnolias."

When you come to the fork in the road, take it.

Osu

Osu was once described as the Adams Morgan of Accra. My friend Kerry noted that was true, except for the chickens.

It is true. Nobody mentioned the goats.

Late Every Afternoon

with a Coke and a cigarette.  (Five cedis to the first person to get the reference.)

Waste

With my colleague Iddrisu  at the National Waste Management conference sponsored by CHF. It wasn't that boring.

Rainy Season

The long anticipated rainy season is here. Cools things down considerably.
Unfortunately, it's raining in my bedroom. The owner of the building lived for 13 yrs in Takoma Park, so we're paisans. He's taking care of it.  

Smile of the Day

I love this little boy's face. He was at the match selling cookies and candies in a basket that weighed what he does. Is probably ten but, as with many kids here, he looks younger and is very small. Amazing how hard he can work for what has to amount to a few cedis a day. I asked if I could take his picture then had to coax a smile out of him.
That smile could light the city for a day.

Peace Match

Scenes from yesterday's Peace Match held on African Union Day and organized by Michael Essien. Didier Drogba, Ashley Cole, Black Stars captain John Mensah, and other current and former players competed. Got drenched and Africa lost but had fun.

Drogba!

After the game and the rain stopped.

The opening ceremony with a performance representing how Europeans brought soccer to Africa. I guess. No mention of what Europeans took from Africa.

Sorry About Tuesday

I realized I missed my Tuesday deadline. For an explanation, see Security.

Security

Most all houses and apartment buildings here have a gate in front. Many also have a security guard at night who opens the gate for residents. The combination is meant to protect the building and residents from an intruder, natch. Problem comes in when the gate is shut and the guard is not there. Everyone tells you it's one of those inevitable things that happens to you. It did.

One night this week, returning from dinner with friends, I arrived home to find the gate locked tight and the night guard no where to be seen. Tell the truth, the night guard is a lovely but very old man who I'm sure would only lecture an intruder about where his life went wrong. But, there he was not. Luckily for me, I was with Martin and Sam (see If It's Tuesday) and a very nice cab driver, all of whom attempted to open the gate to no avail.

Wall and fence are a bit under six feet high, not counting the spikes...the most effective part of the security system. Martin, who is probably half a foot over six, offered to jump the wall next to the fence with a boost from Sam. Sam suggested that perhaps HE should jump the fence with a boost from Martin. After some discussion, that's what he did. I didn't watch because I was contemplating how we would get into the fence after Sam fell and wondered if the cab driver knew how to get to the nearest hospital (see Taxi!).  No worries. He was over the wall and had the fence open in a matter of seconds with nary a scratch, cigarette firmly in mouth. Only cost Martin a few cuts. 

Haven't seen the guard since, now that I mention it.

Taxi!

Taxis in Accra deserve their own blog. There are thousands of cabs here and their honking to get your attention is part of the soundtrack of the city. Most are old cars, some held together with wire, some barely held together at all. I can't remember how many times the driver has had to get out to open the passenger door. Seat belts work, sometimes. (I don't get into a car without one, Mom.) Drivers are mostly young men (I've yet to see a woman) who brave the terrible traffic and bad driving and lack of stop signs. They can get to only very well known landmarks so you have to know how to get where you're going. Those of you who know my sense of direction and navigation skills: pause for laughter.

I have been quite frustrated by taxis yet have also had some great conversations about the country, the presidents...Mills AND Obama....and life here in Accra.

Taxis represent the frustration and ingenuity that is making a living here.

On the way back from Melcom (like Kmart) the taxi I was riding in didn't start at a red light. I assumed that the car had stalled. The driver simply said, "Out of gas" then proceeded to leave the cab. As I didn't know where I was or what he was doing, I stayed put contemplating how a cab driver could run out of gas.

A few minutes later, the cab driver reappears, opens my door, grabs one of my bags, telling me to get into the other cab he had flagged down. The two cabbies negotiated on splitting the fare, I got into the second cab, and off I went. I'm sure the cabbie used my 2 cedis to buy more gas and picked up a new ride in short order. Ingenuity.

BTW, one doesn't yell :Taxi" here. You either point down toward the ground in front of you or you hiss. I can't quite bring myself to hissing but I stopped putting my hand up in the air at least.

If It's Tuesday

 Gillian, Martin, Sam and me at the Secret Beach near Takoradi. Must have been the third day. Thankfully, the beer held out.

Pizza with Quinine and Extra Cheese

Accra is a place of such contradiction. I had pizza last night that rivals any in DC...even Pizzeria Paradiso and Two Amy's. A friend was supposed to join us but he has malaria.
See what I mean?
(He's going to be fine, btw. Just a touch.)

WTF Update

A white cow running down Kanda Highway yesterday at about 5:45 p.m. His owner was chasing behind him about half a block. A lady yelling, not sure if at the cow, the owner, or just generally.

The AABN Team

Stella, Cathy, Robbie, Maureen and Freemon (seated)

Some photos of my colleagues. Robbie (the Australian) is off to Morocco, then home. Freemon is in a traditional Kente cloth during his closing ceremony. He is off to start his own business. He usually doesn't look so glum. 

Lome'

Lome, Togo, is about three hours from Accra. Five if you go the scenic route. Don't.
Nice beaches, right along the port area. Fun spot for music, including a great Lionel Ritchie tribute. Some good food though the promised great cheese and French wine alluded us.
The Cocoa Beach hotel is not at Cocoa Beach. You really had to have assumed that.

The Fetish Market: I can't really describe it. Imagine for a minute small, dead heads of animals and the attendant smell. Guess that does describe it. The photo won't do it justice. You really have to be there.

The fetish man will bless objects that bring luck, love, good health, virility (as this is a family blog, I won't quote him).

Fetish priests practice white magic. Only Nigerians practice black magic. Doesn't matter if you believe or not; it will still work on you. So I've got that going for me. Which is nice.

The border is a scene of terrific chaos. Americans pay more than Europeans to enter Togo. Hmpft. Getting back in to Ghana easy. If you don't have your Yellow fever vaccine card, you better have a small bill. If the official you get is watching a particularly riveting episode of a soap opera, it may take a while.

What the ...?

My friend Martin, who's Irish, said yesterday that "not a day goes by here that something doesn't make you go what the f#$%." Truer words never spoken.

Yesterday's WTF:  Small, white pickup truck driving from the Togo border toward Accra. Two men in the back. With two horned cows. One guy had his legs draped over this poor animal's back. There may have been three cows in the truck, actually. I only saw two. Either way, wtf.

The News from West Africa

I was in Lome', Togo when the news of bin Laden's death was announced. Actually, I heard it the next morning on CNN International. Was odd to be away from the US when this happened and may have increased my very mixed feelings.

A sample of how the news of bin Laden's death is being reported here:

Daily Guide (Ghana's second largest paper): "News about the stealth operation in which Pakistani authorities collaborated with their US counterparts was broken by a visibly-excited President Barack Obama in the wee hours of the night in the US, a development which reports indicate could shore his waning political fortunes."

From allAfrica.com: "Is the death of the terror mastermind necessarily going to lead to safer travel and tourism or will it lead to heightened security alerts and more thorough screening? Kenyans have never forgotten that in 1998, al Qaeda terrorists, who were targeting the American embassy in Nairobi, killed over 250 Kenyans -- and 12 Americans -- in what remains the country's worst terror attack."

The other large dailies and radio sites are using BBC or Al Jazeera coverage.

A Ghanaian colleague asked me today if I was "rejoicing" in bin Laden's death. He shared my fear that there might be reprisals but also a general sense that the world is better off without bin Laden in it. No other comments from folks. Life goes on here, as it did before September 2011.

Phrase of the Day

Phrase of the day: "Unless tomorrow"

Do you have the shrimp today?
No, sorry, unless tomorrow.

Translation: We don't have it today. Perhaps next time you come in.

The Beach

Spent the weekend at the beach, west of Takoradi.  Drove past Cape Coast to a small town, then down a dirt and stone road to a small cluster of stone huts. Can't really call it a village. Walked for about 20 minutes or so through the woods to arrive at an unspoiled beach surrounded by rocks. Just beautiful.

There are some eco-friendly lodges in the area and folks working with the villagers to encourage tourism while maintaining the natural beauty of the landscape. Green Turtle Lodge hosted the weekend and is run by a great British couple. They employ a bunch of local folks and keep their profits in the community while running a turtle conservation program. According to Tom, the Ghanaian tourist board thinks that foreigners, esp. Americans and Europeans want only four star hotels and discourage any other kind of development. The last thing anyone should want is to make this coast look like Jersey (all due respect) or to see profits going to Hilton HQ instead of to the villages that will be most affected by tourism.

I camped for three nights. Yes, you heard right. Camped. I've also discovered rather late in life that I am a naturally gifted cricket player. I may have discovered my new career. It's quite a fun game when playing on a beach, with a tennis ball, and a log for a bat, and with a group of semi-drunk people from at least four continents. 

EatBiz

One of the cool programs my organization runs is EatBiz, which trains women in informal catering (food vendors, locally known as "chop bars"). We held a certificate ceremony yesterday for participants. These women are a critical part of the agricultural value chain and are making money in the informal sector, which accounts for up to 90% of the economy of the country.

Many of these women are semi--or illiterate and have to earn a living while caring for family members. There are no jobs for them in the formal economy (government and the very small private sector) so they use the skills they have in preparing traditional food and sell it. There is a growing demand for food here from workers, students, and to a lesser extent, tourists. Training in food safety, customer service, business management and finance allows these women to grow their businesses, access finance, and even employ others.

If you can't find a job here, you make one. People work their tails off to earn a living.
 The government collects taxes, a few cedi's a day collected by men in uniforms, who walk off with the money. Policies to stabilize the economy attempted to formalize these businesses but provided no capacity building or much-needed safe, clean spaces for these businesses.

I've had jollof rice with chicken in a chop bar. Tasty! I'm going to brave more adventurous food soon.

Oh the Noise, Noise, Noise, Noise!

Yes, it's hot. Imagine my surprise if it was 52 and cloudy.
The biggest surprise so far: the noise. Car horns, radios blaring, preachers preaching in makeshift churches, all manner of autos, dogs barking, roosters crowing.

Life is lived in the open, on the street, on balconies, in courtyards. Families and neighbors gather to watch one tv or listen to a radio at full volume. Bars (that is, stands with a table or two selling bottles of beer and what looks like bottom shelf booze) are open meeting places. Even inside restaurants and higher end bars, music and tv volumes are very high.

As far as I can tell so far, though, people keep early hours. Up and out early in the morning and to bed early. Even I, the avowed nightowl, have been early to bed and early to rise. Another surprise!

Akwaaba

The view from my office window

Welcome to my Accra adventure. I was advised to pick a day of the week to post, so I will try to do so on Tuesdays. The internet here is unreliable, slow, and occasionally, the entire system goes out but I will do my best to keep to a schedule.

About that day and the name: Ghanaians give a name to a child depending on the day of the week they were born. In Akan, a girl born on Tuesday is called Abena, which I learned from the old lady who runs a little bodega (more on that later) near my office/apartment (more on that later). Her day name is Akua (Wednesday). She was delighted when I remembered my name and used hers.

Here's the rub: I was actually born on Thursday. She misunderstood and I couldn't correct her. I've heard of lying about the year you were born....

Anyway, I will try to write on Tuesdays and keep you updated on my news, photos, learning, and sweet surprises. Please post comments, updates and news of your own.