Tuesday, 13 March 2012

Bush Has Become Death Trap

The new George Walker Bush highway, just recently hailed as a milestone in economic development is now being called a death trap. The folks who live on either side of the highway are crossing it because the six footbridges are too few and far apart. There ahve been 13 fatalities of pedestrians since the highway reopened February 15th. In addition, because traffic isn't clogged, drivers can go faster; there have been 34 accidents since last month, too. Estimates of death tolls vary.

"Major Albert Don Chebe, Public Affairs Manager of the Millennium Development Authority(MiDA), said the road was built to a particular specification but after it had been completed, its shortcomings became obvious." Chebe noted that there is no more money for constructing new footbridges from the MiDA and that it was up to the Ghanaian government to sort it out.

In other transport news, this morning a taxi was careening down my road carrying a car-load of little kids going to school. There must have been six or seven of them in a car about the size of a Civic. Not a seatbelt around any one of them. Sadly, very common.

The other day, on the exact same stretch of road, I saw two cars trying to pass in opposite directions on a narrow stretch. One had to back up a few feet to let the other by and then he could continue on. Neither driver would give in. They sat staring at each other while cars piled up behind the one driver. I have seen this time and again. Guess backing up is backing down.

POTUS and POTROG

Mrs. Mills and Mrs. Obama

The news here is full of stories about the visit of Ghana's third President of the 4th Republic, H.E. Professor John Evans Atta Mills to the White House last week.  According to the Daily Graphic, the meeting reflected the “deepening of partnership between  the two countries.”

According to cynical observers, the timing of the meeting helps Atta Mills to bolster his credentials in this election year.  He is widely accused of doing too little to speed the pace of development. Nor is he charismatic (to say the least), which is a trait that is more valued here than in the U.S. Charisma got several of his predecessors the presidency. Course, so did shooting their opponents, but I digress. 

Friends and I have noted lately some striking similarities between Atta Mills’ and Obama’s political rise. Both are lawyers and former law professors. They were elected president in the same year. Both have been challenged by the wives of former presidents and defeated them. Both are often accused of being too intellectual.
 
Atta Mills, head of the National Democratic Congress, won in 2008 by the slimmest of margins, after a run-off. (He had lost in two previous tries, in 2000 and 2004). He’s being challenged again by the same guy, former Foreign Minister Nana Addo Dankwa Akufo-Addo, head of the New Patriotic Party. The NPP is considered Center-Right and the NDC Center-Left. I’m still not sure I know any real policy differences between the two but I’m learning. See The Big Six for more trivia on Mr. Akufo- Addo. 
Ghana is proud though that since 1992 there have been peaceful elections and transitions from one party to another with no upheaval. This is a real model for other African countries.
 
I’m looking forward to comparing the Ghanaian election to the US. To date, I’ve seen similar rhetoric, demonizing of gays to score points with conservatives, ad hominem attacks, calls for bipartisanship, vague policy statements, wildly unrealistic promises, and the most superficial understanding of the differences between the parties. Democracy really is the worst form of government no matter where you are, I guess.
US political trivia quiz:
Has anyone run for president three times?
Anyone win on the third try?
Has anyone lost then challenged the sitting president in the next election? Has he won?
(I’m counting on Christine and Maureen to know these answers off the tops of their heads!)

Monday, 12 March 2012

Travel Delays

Sorry for the delay in posting. I've been chastised by one of my faithful readers. I do have a few excuses.Travel, for one. Went to Axim beach last weekend. Prettiest beach I've seen in Ghana.
Sometimes these beach photos look photo-shopped but it really is that beautiful.

Sunday, 19 February 2012

Music and Worship

Beautiful music and powerful messages from the Bokamoso South African Youth Choir at All Souls Church in Washington. Makes me miss ASC all the more. I'm still looking for a welcoming spiritual place here. 

Thursday, 16 February 2012

Motorway

The George Walker Bush Motorway was commissioned yesterday in Accra. Technically, the Tetteh Quarshie Overpass-Mallam Highway, it was renamed for the former US president by former Ghana president John Agyekum Kuffour who was in office when the Millenium Challenge Compact was signed between the US and Ghana.

The motorwaywill relieve terrible traffic congestion for commuters into Accra, reduce costs of transporting agricultural products from the Central Region, and allow easier access to Ghana's only international airport and the port at Tema. 

It has the added benefit of cutting travel time for us going to the beaches west of Accra. Before today, the dreaded "Mallam Junction" was a hot mess of cars, trucks, tro tros, buses, and motorbikes all trying to get into or out of the city, usually in the same lane, all the while dodging the plantain chip and water sellers. A three hour trip to Cape Coast could take five hours.

Happy that my tax dollars were put to good use AND that I get some use out of it. The US flags are a nice touch.

I'm not calling it by its name though.

Tuesday, 14 February 2012

When You Care Enough

For Christine: A Hallmark store in Accra!!! I think of you every time I pass by it.
I'll try to get a better photo!

Afcon Final

Zambia beats Ivory Coast in an almost-never-ending Penalty Shootout. What a dumb way to end a sporting event. The good news is Sam Lloyd won the pool. He still owes me a beer.

When does March Madness start??

Thursday, 9 February 2012

Status Update of the Day

"I would like the Harmattan to finish now please. I can only see 30 meters outside our front door, I feel like I'm breathing in through an old vacuum cleaner and my bogeys are 90% orange dust. "
The dust is pretty awful, but the weather is a cool 81 degrees and will get down to about 75 overnight. I'll take the heat.

Trying to find a photo that does it justice.

Stars Gone Out

The Black Stars are out of the Afcon. Sad days in Ghana. Now rooting for Zambia, because if Sam wins the pool, he'll buy me a beer. Of course, I'm holding the money and I was out first so they should all buy me a beer!

Tuesday, 7 February 2012

Football Update

Black Stars advance! A close call but they beat Tunisia after a rough, elbow-throwing, red card match. Zambia tomorrow. Will be tough.

AND I was one of the 100 million or so who watched the Super Bowl live. Kickoff was at 11:30 p.m. and ended around 3:15 a.m. Almost didn't stay awake but glad I did. Hosted some American friends and a few English folks. Hard game to explain to folks who've never seen this football before.

Thursday, 2 February 2012

Email of the Day

"Subject: Rat B@st...

From: Ellen 12:33 PM (3 hours ago)
to O'Connell, nbeardsley, me, R

Saw his shadow!! "

This is the kind of rodent we have here. He never sees his shadow, poor B@st... And, yes, people eat them.
Happy Groundhog Day.

Black Stars Advance

Despite last evening's tie with Guinea, the Black Stars advance to the quarterfinals of the African Cup of Nations.

Not as much fun watching games in an Irish pub with a bunch of white people, as it turns out.

Tuesday, 31 January 2012

Reflections on Obama in Ghana

Nicholas I work with is a huge Obama fan and an astute observer of American politics.  He wrote the following article when President and Mrs. Obama came to Ghana in 2009, which was published in the Daily Graphic, the country's largest newspaper.

Video of Obama's speech to the Ghanaian parliament here.  


REFLECTIONS… AS WE WELCOME BARACK OBAMA

In the summer sunshine of August 28, 1963, at the Lincoln Memorial, Washington D.C., the impassioned voice of a young activist was heard –

“… We can never be satisfied as long as the Negro is the victim of the unspeakable horrors of police brutality
We can never be satisfied as our children are stripped of their self-hood and robbed of their dignity by a sign stating: ‘For Whites Only’…
I have a dream…
I have a dream that one day, on the red hills of Georgia, the sons of former slaves and the sons of former slave owners will be able to sit down together at the table of brotherhood…
I have a dream today! ...”

It was Martin Luther King Jnr, speaking out against black segregation, suppression and oppression. Beyond the hearing reach of this cry for emancipation, in far away Hawaii, an innocent two-year old boy played with his mom, completely unaware of the cords of destiny that tied the words of Martin Luther to this boy’s own future. The boy, whose father was a Kenyan immigrant to the United States, would, forty-five years later, deliver an eye-watering speech in Chicago, a speech which would mark a watershed in the presidency of the United States –

Hello Chicago! If there is anyone out there, who still doubts that America is the place where all things are possible;
Who still wonders if the dream of our Founding Fathers is alive in our time; Who still questions the power of our democracy;
Tonight is your answer!
It’s the answer told by lines that stretched around schools and churches, in numbers this nation has never seen…
It’s been a long time coming, but tonight, because of what we did on this day, in this election, at this defining moment, CHANGE has come to America!”

An eagerly watching world went wild with jubilation at the moving words of the new President. A Japanese city, coincidentally called ‘Obama’, became famous overnight. Kenya immediately declared a national holiday, and the Kenyan village of Alego-Kogello, birthplace of the new president’s father was flattered by abundant media attention.  Within America itself, African Americans could hardly hold back rolling tears of joy as they savoured the speech. For African Americans and all Africans, this victory naturally had a deeper significance. It would be the first time in forty-four presidencies that the White House would be occupied by a black family.

Black people around the world could now bask in a priceless prize; the pride of knowing that one of their own runs the Oval Office; arguably the most powerful office in the world.  At last a more balanced story would be told as global television scenes which have almost succeeded in making the black face a trademark of hunger, poverty and flies begin to showcase this new First Family of the United States.

A black family in the prestigious White House ridicules the very notion that gave birth to apartheid – that blacks are inferior to whites. It makes nonsense of black slavery and gives flesh and blood meaning to black emancipation. It justifies, rewards and pays tribute to the sweat of Presidents Nkrumah and Mandela, Reggae king Bob Marley and civil rights activists Martin Luther, Malcolm X and Marcus Garvey, as well as others who sacrificed immensely, many with their lives, to give the black man a place of dignity in society.

The story of Obama challenges and inspires African Americans and black people from across the globe, who, because of skin colour, have pruned their ambitions or resigned themselves to mediocrity. It provides at least four years of psychological repair to a world that has for so long seen anything black through lens of inferiority.

As overjoyed as many black people were and still are about Obama’s ascendancy to president, many could not even have imagined this outcome from the outset.  America’s dark history of racism and Obama’s unusual profile didn’t quite make a presidential click.

Apart from having had a Kenyan for a biological father, Obama’s Arabic middle name was a reminder of Iraq’s notorious dictator who was overthrown by the White House barely five years before the American elections. Another curious handicap was the name ‘Obama’ itself. It bore an uncomfortable resemblance to, and rhymed with the name of America’s most hated enemy. In fact, Microsoft word (2007 Edition) recognizes the word ‘Obama’ as a typographical error for ‘Osama’!

It is for all of these reasons and more that Obama’s story will forever be an inspiring example of how a society can transform its own values. How a society can change. The true genius of America, according to Obama, is that America can change.

While ‘A-me-ri-ca’ may sound like a ‘A mi-ra-cle’ to many, it is nothing more than a people who are committed to prosperity for all their citizenry through growing values of patriotism, democracy, unity, liberty, equality, opportunity, leadership, change and unyielding hope. These are values that are within the reach of any country, values even within the reach of our own beloved Ghana.

As Ghana hosts President Barack Hussein Obama, offspring of the most thriving democracy in the world, it will be worth our while as Ghanaians, to pause for a moment and reflect on our own values as a nation. Let us draw inspiration and begin to dream big dreams for our own Motherland.

Let us live the leadership role in Africa by building a democracy that is truly enviable.
Surely we can break this cycle of vindictiveness that is creeping into our politics and poisoning our democracy. Let us hold our public officials accountable all year through and not be heard chanting accountability only when we change political administration.

Let us move away from excessive partisanship to a greater sense of nationalism, breaking lose the shackles that hold us from criticizing and condemning what we know to be wrong for fear of party disaffection. Let us stop, once and for all, this backwardly immature habit of putting party colours on every voice, article, initiative or individual.  

Let us demand that our politicians make responsible utterances – utterances which do not inflame tribal passions and destroy our growing unity – noble utterances which do not betray a desperation to gain or hold on to political office at any cost.

Let us refuse to be held prisoners to our past by using today’s ideals to condemn today’s wrongs instead of trivializing, downplaying or denying what we know to be wrong because the other party supposedly did worse in the past.

Let us unite around a common national education policy, born out of cross-sectoral, cross-party negotiations; a policy that will not be subject to the whims of revolving political administrations. And let us, together, resolve to fight illiteracy with everything we’ve got, remembering that at the dawn of this new century, illiteracy is a terrorist to a country’s democracy and national growth.

We can, and we must, end this needlessly barbaric bloodshed on our roads. Let us begin to give deeper meaning to human life as a nation of God-fearing people. Let us invoke all radical measures to massively cut down our unacceptably high car accident rates.

Working together, we can rid our streets of congestion and filth. Politics should not divide us on this anymore. Let NPP, NDC, CPP etc. realize that the eyesore that meets foreigners who tour our nation is not clothed in party colours. Let us come together as one people to tackle our challenges.

Finally, let all Ghanaians everywhere, home and abroad, remember that government alone cannot solve all our challenges. Let every individual Ghanaian – young or old, male or female, disabled or not-disabled, rich or poor, white-collar worker or blue-collar worker, politician or non-politician – work a little harder and sacrifice just a little bit more for our dear Ghana.

And as we journey on to becoming a beacon for a warm continent, let us remember that difficult times await every march to greatness. And when our hopes seem to give way, and the cloud appears to cover the silver lining, let us remember that two-year old boy who grew up to defy every obstacle in fulfillment of Martin Luther’s dream. Let us recite his last words on that glorious Chicago night –

“… For out of many we are one, while we breathe we hope, and where we are met with cynicism and doubt, and those who tell us that we can’t, we will respond with that timeless creed that sums up the Spirit of our people – Yes We Can!”

God bless our Motherland Ghana, and may God bless the ties that bond Ghana and the USA!

Nicholas Ekow Anesi de-Heer
Kumasi

Monday, 30 January 2012

Gratitude

I received the following email last week from the director of a small NGO in Bolgatanga we have been working with as part of a grant to build the capacity of local advocacy organizations.

Bismark doesn't know how grateful I am for being able to do this work. Blessings, indeed.

Good Evening Elizabeth,
I don't just know how much to convey our heart-felt gratitude to you, Julian and your organization. You worked on our Step-Change Plan with so much commitment as if NORPRA is that of your own....So for you to pour out all your strength, resources and love for NORPRA's Step-Change Plan in such a timely manner, I say we really appreciate it very much. Truly, God's blessings are not blind and will always come directly to people like you and your organization who indeed greatly deserve them. I will meet with some of my colleagues in NORPRA tomorrow for us to look at the final comments together and get back to you before sending it...
Once again, accept our million thanks for fantastic job done. You have been so wonderful in supporting NORPRA.
Best regards
Bismark
NORPRA
NORPRA (Northern Patriots for Research and Advocacy educates and engages citizens in Ghana's three northernmost regions about public policy in Upper East, Upper West and Northern Regions, the poorest and least developed parts of the country. They hold politicians accountable for their promises and advocate for increased investments in those regions. Bismark, the Executive Director and one of the organization's founders, has worked without pay since the organization's inception.

Sunday, 29 January 2012

Ban on Gays

Yay to Ban Ki-Moon and the UN for standing up for universal human rights.

Boo to President Mills for pandering. The rhetoric here, from politicians and people alike is awful. A real dark side to otherwise kind people.

Thank you to Reverend Desmond Tutu for standing on the side of love, as he has done his whole life.

(Apologies for the bad pun in the title.)

African Cup Update

Great game last night. Black Stars 2 - Les Aigles of Mali 0

The best part of watching matches here is the dancing after each point and the win.

Update on the pool: Turns out Libya's Mediterranean Knights are not out of the running yet. They play Senegal who is out of the tournament after upsets by Zambia and Equatorial Guinea. No matter the outcome, it's amazing Libya is even there. The team's history matches the complicated history of the country. Ties to Gaddafi family, several players who left to join the rebels, lingering resentment over shifting loyalties.

Said team captain and goalkeeper Samir Aboud, "Libyan players have no clubs - we have been out of training for a long time, so at least we have tried to give a good image of our country [at this tournament]."

Let's hope.  

Tuesday, 24 January 2012

Black Stars

Listening to the Black Stars play Botswana in the Africa Cup of Nations while working on a powerpoint presentation. Actually listening to the guard's radio. We knew Ghana scored when we heard the horns honk and the cheers coming from the office building next door! No need to even watch to know what's going on.

I have 20 cedis riding on the tournament. Both of my teams lost already. I'll make it back during March Madness!

Supporting Waste Enterprisers

Waste Enterprisers was founded and is run by an American woman Ashley Murray, whom I recently met. Together with Columbia University  and Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology, and with support from the Gates Foundation, WE is working to develop technology to turn fecal sludge (yep, it's what you think it is) into biofuel and to develop other businesses to turn human waste into an economic resource. These businesses can "eliminate the dumping of fecal sludge into the environment while simultaneously offsetting fossil fuel consumption."

Waste Enterprisers is competing in a unique program for innovative social entreprenuers, called the Unreasonable Institute. You can help support their efforts here: The Unreasonable Institute.

This is another innovative idea, run by committed, smart people with the audacity to change the world.  

Tuesday, 17 January 2012

Traveling Fool

From December 4th, 2011 to January 9th, 2012 I traveled from:
Accra to Busua (218 km; c. 5 hours)
Busua to Kumasi ( est. 100 km; c. 4 hours)
Kumasi to Bolgatanga (558 km; c. 10 hours)
Bolgatanga to Wa (368 km; c. 5 hours)
Wa to Accra (740 km; c. 10 hours)
Accra to Frankfurt (3,101 miles; 7 hours)
Frankfurt to Washington (4,080 miles; 8 hours)
Washington to Sayre (278 miles; 6 hours)
Sayre to Philadelphia (223 miles; 3 hours)
Philadelphia to Sayre (223 miles; 3 hours)
Sayre to Washington (278 miles; 6 hours)
Washington to London (3,677 miles; 7 hours)
and London to Accra (3,160 miles; 6 hours).


Looking forward to traveling east this weekend!!

I'm Back

Hello, faithful readers. I'm back in Accra and back on the blog. I promised Christine and Maureen I would try my best to restart the Tuesday posts so here goes.

After a wonderful three week vacation back home I'm back in Accra. I had a glorious time seeing my family and most friends back home. Sorry to have missed some.

The biggest adjustments: the cold, of course. Also, I can't eat beef anymore, esp. ground beef. I've been off it here since I got sick twice, but thought US beef would be fine. Nope. Oh well. Pork is delic so I'll make due.

Promise to attempt a more regular Tuesday schedule here. Will also try to post some photos. The intertubes are still their usual slow going so don't hold your breath.

Comments always welcome and appreciated!