Phrase of the day: "Unless tomorrow"
Do you have the shrimp today?
No, sorry, unless tomorrow.
Translation: We don't have it today. Perhaps next time you come in.
Thursday, 28 April 2011
Tuesday, 26 April 2011
The Beach
Spent the weekend at the beach, west of Takoradi. Drove past Cape Coast to a small town, then down a dirt and stone road to a small cluster of stone huts. Can't really call it a village. Walked for about 20 minutes or so through the woods to arrive at an unspoiled beach surrounded by rocks. Just beautiful.
There are some eco-friendly lodges in the area and folks working with the villagers to encourage tourism while maintaining the natural beauty of the landscape. Green Turtle Lodge hosted the weekend and is run by a great British couple. They employ a bunch of local folks and keep their profits in the community while running a turtle conservation program. According to Tom, the Ghanaian tourist board thinks that foreigners, esp. Americans and Europeans want only four star hotels and discourage any other kind of development. The last thing anyone should want is to make this coast look like Jersey (all due respect) or to see profits going to Hilton HQ instead of to the villages that will be most affected by tourism.
I camped for three nights. Yes, you heard right. Camped. I've also discovered rather late in life that I am a naturally gifted cricket player. I may have discovered my new career. It's quite a fun game when playing on a beach, with a tennis ball, and a log for a bat, and with a group of semi-drunk people from at least four continents.
There are some eco-friendly lodges in the area and folks working with the villagers to encourage tourism while maintaining the natural beauty of the landscape. Green Turtle Lodge hosted the weekend and is run by a great British couple. They employ a bunch of local folks and keep their profits in the community while running a turtle conservation program. According to Tom, the Ghanaian tourist board thinks that foreigners, esp. Americans and Europeans want only four star hotels and discourage any other kind of development. The last thing anyone should want is to make this coast look like Jersey (all due respect) or to see profits going to Hilton HQ instead of to the villages that will be most affected by tourism.
I camped for three nights. Yes, you heard right. Camped. I've also discovered rather late in life that I am a naturally gifted cricket player. I may have discovered my new career. It's quite a fun game when playing on a beach, with a tennis ball, and a log for a bat, and with a group of semi-drunk people from at least four continents.
Thursday, 21 April 2011
EatBiz
One of the cool programs my organization runs is EatBiz, which trains women in informal catering (food vendors, locally known as "chop bars"). We held a certificate ceremony yesterday for participants. These women are a critical part of the agricultural value chain and are making money in the informal sector, which accounts for up to 90% of the economy of the country.
Many of these women are semi--or illiterate and have to earn a living while caring for family members. There are no jobs for them in the formal economy (government and the very small private sector) so they use the skills they have in preparing traditional food and sell it. There is a growing demand for food here from workers, students, and to a lesser extent, tourists. Training in food safety, customer service, business management and finance allows these women to grow their businesses, access finance, and even employ others.
If you can't find a job here, you make one. People work their tails off to earn a living.
The government collects taxes, a few cedi's a day collected by men in uniforms, who walk off with the money. Policies to stabilize the economy attempted to formalize these businesses but provided no capacity building or much-needed safe, clean spaces for these businesses.
I've had jollof rice with chicken in a chop bar. Tasty! I'm going to brave more adventurous food soon.
Many of these women are semi--or illiterate and have to earn a living while caring for family members. There are no jobs for them in the formal economy (government and the very small private sector) so they use the skills they have in preparing traditional food and sell it. There is a growing demand for food here from workers, students, and to a lesser extent, tourists. Training in food safety, customer service, business management and finance allows these women to grow their businesses, access finance, and even employ others.
The government collects taxes, a few cedi's a day collected by men in uniforms, who walk off with the money. Policies to stabilize the economy attempted to formalize these businesses but provided no capacity building or much-needed safe, clean spaces for these businesses.
I've had jollof rice with chicken in a chop bar. Tasty! I'm going to brave more adventurous food soon.
Oh the Noise, Noise, Noise, Noise!
Yes, it's hot. Imagine my surprise if it was 52 and cloudy.
The biggest surprise so far: the noise. Car horns, radios blaring, preachers preaching in makeshift churches, all manner of autos, dogs barking, roosters crowing.
Life is lived in the open, on the street, on balconies, in courtyards. Families and neighbors gather to watch one tv or listen to a radio at full volume. Bars (that is, stands with a table or two selling bottles of beer and what looks like bottom shelf booze) are open meeting places. Even inside restaurants and higher end bars, music and tv volumes are very high.
As far as I can tell so far, though, people keep early hours. Up and out early in the morning and to bed early. Even I, the avowed nightowl, have been early to bed and early to rise. Another surprise!
The biggest surprise so far: the noise. Car horns, radios blaring, preachers preaching in makeshift churches, all manner of autos, dogs barking, roosters crowing.
Life is lived in the open, on the street, on balconies, in courtyards. Families and neighbors gather to watch one tv or listen to a radio at full volume. Bars (that is, stands with a table or two selling bottles of beer and what looks like bottom shelf booze) are open meeting places. Even inside restaurants and higher end bars, music and tv volumes are very high.
As far as I can tell so far, though, people keep early hours. Up and out early in the morning and to bed early. Even I, the avowed nightowl, have been early to bed and early to rise. Another surprise!
Akwaaba
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| The view from my office window |
About that day and the name: Ghanaians give a name to a child depending on the day of the week they were born. In Akan, a girl born on Tuesday is called Abena, which I learned from the old lady who runs a little bodega (more on that later) near my office/apartment (more on that later). Her day name is Akua (Wednesday). She was delighted when I remembered my name and used hers.
Here's the rub: I was actually born on Thursday. She misunderstood and I couldn't correct her. I've heard of lying about the year you were born....
Anyway, I will try to write on Tuesdays and keep you updated on my news, photos, learning, and sweet surprises. Please post comments, updates and news of your own.
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